Use the Table of Offsets and the Lines Drawing to loft bulkheads onto Plywood                    The bulkheads cut out, after subtracting scantlings thicknesses--from 3/8" Arauco pine plywood from Chile

                   Bulkheads divided by the centerboard trunk are joined by a piece of scrap plywood                                       Drilling holes in bulkheads for stowage of oars, boathooks, etc.                                    

                                         The strongback, made from sawhorses and 2x6s                                                  The bulkheads set up on stanchions erected from the strongback--the inner transom is supported beyond the strongback        

              The apron/forefoot/knee assembly ready to add to the frame                                          The inner transom braced from the strongback with sheer clamps and keel bottom attached

                 The apron/forefoot assembly mounted on the frame                                                          Using a bevel square to determine the cut angle for the sheer clamp to apron joint

                 Sheer clamps joined to the apron with breast hook                                                  The hull in frame with sheer clamps, chine battens and inner keel-plank bottom installed

The frame with all longitudinals finished except the forward half of the inner keel-plank bottom (view from forward, left; view from aft, right)

Bow frame detail                                                                                       Transom outer layer being laminated over the inner layer

Using a low-speed body grinder to bevel the chine logs for planking                                                                       The apron sides beveled for planking             

Garboard planks going on (stern view left; bow view right)

Box keel sides going on                                                                                                      Middle and sheer strakes going on

                             The planked hull, ready for final keel-plank bottom layer                                                                        The keel-plank finished; first outer stem laminate going on        

Applying Xynole-polyester fabric (keel, left; centerboard slot, right)

   The hull covered in Xynole/epoxy, with two layers on the bottom and stem                                                        Using a drawing batten to establish rudder shape; note rabbet in post            

    Laminating the rudder halves into rabbets cut in the rudder post                                                          The finished rudder with solid core and cheeks for the tiller

                                                                              The centerboard shaped and faired                                        The hull in primer, sanded--note that the chines must be hand sanded, as a power sander would make them unfair!

The rudder covered with Xynole/epoxy                                                                                               The tiller being laminated from ash and mahogany

The tiller, shaped, sanded and epoxy sealed                                                                                             The hull right-side-up, in primer

                                              Fitting the side deck carlins                                                                       Preparing the foredeck and mast partner; adding stiffeners to the adjacent bulkheads

Installing the centerboard trunk halves and posts                                                                                           The mast step with weep holes            

  Laying 1" and 3" fiberglass tape directly onto wet epoxy/Cabosil/microballoon fillets                                                                  Wetting out tape & fillets                                                 

Deck carlins being glued in place

Side deck layout--dry fitting first

                     The fore deck requires small filler pieces to bring the frame up to deck level                       The areas under the side decks are painted before laying the decks, which are then glued & fastened  

                                                                   All decking glued in place                                                        The mast partners must be drilled to the angle of mast rake using a hole saw with a long guide bitt

                                         The hull is masked offprior to applying Xynole/epoxy on the decks                                               The inside of the hull receives Xynole/epoxy to protect the wet and walk areas

Xynole laid in place (left) and wet out (right)

          Detail of stem head and breast hook                                                                                     Using a template to size the base of the mast

Cutting and finishing the slot for the main and jib haliard sheaves

        A concave sanding pad made on the table saw for mast-shaping                                                          The mast and sprit finished and epoxy sealed prior to varnish                                  

The rudder in primer                                                                                                                                     The hull in primer               

Applying non-skid using epoxy primer and fine sand-blasting sand

Using battens to establish the boot top                                                                                                        Masking the boot for paint
           The Imron finish painted Sea Bright 14 with teak rubrails                                             JERSEY GIRL prior to bottom paint (Scott Williams photo)   
     Stern cleat components--backing block is 1/8" aluminum plate                                                                          Stern cleat installed with bedding compound       

Oarlock gudgeon & teak mounting base with weep hole--the pan head screws are installed from beneath the deck; the bolts pass through the gudgeon and the deck

                       Rowlock gudgeon and base installed with bedding compound                                    Foredeck cleat and backup fender-washers--the deck centerline is doubled for additional backup strength
                        Foredeck cleats installed with bedding compound                                                    Starting the rat-tail cringle for the mains'l peak--I have already made the sails

                                     Forming the cringle by unlaying have the rope and starting a splice         After laying up strands on both sides of the cringle while cutting strands out to form the tapered rat-tails, the cringle is sewn onto the peak

Sewing the jib to the jibstay, which is also the halyard and tack

           Antifouling paint applied (two coats)                                                                 Bow strap eye for the jib tack; cleat for the tack

  Cleat for the port side jib sheet                                                                                              Fairlead block for the port side jib sheet

                  Rudder hardware adapted from Schaefer components                                                   JERSEY GIRL with cypress coamings, rowing hardware, towing eye and cleats--oars are 8' ash

                                  The mains'l peak cringle on the sprit nipple                                                        The main sheet, which I later relocated to the rudder head, eliminating the rope traveler

JERSEY GIRL on the trailer

Reuel sailing JERSEY GIRL on Senebec Lake, Union, Maine (Tom Adams photo)